Portsmouth Harbour, the Isle of Wight and Spithead as a World Heritage Site

Nomination of the world’s first Cultural Seascape: Defence of the Realm  

to be Inscribed on the World Heritage List

Portsmouth Harbour   The Guardian Magazine

 * = Still to be inserted

This document has been produced and co-ordinated under the direction of the Portsmouth Harbour and Spithead Steering Group.  The following organisations are working towards Portsmouth Harbour and Spithead’s Nomination for World Heritage status:

 

Portsmouth City Council, Fareham Borough Council, Winchester City Council, Gosport Borough Council, the Isle of Wight Council, MOD Defence Estates, Queen’s Harbour Master, The Hants. and Wight Trust for Maritime Archaeology, Mary Rose Trust, The Portsmouth Society, Gosport  Society, Fareham Society, Portchester Society, City of Winchester Trust, Isle of Wight Society, Solent Protection Society, Hampshire Buildings Preservation Trust, Naval Dockyards Society, University of Portsmouth

 

Support and endorsement is sought from English Heritage, Government Office South East,

South East of England Development Agency, the National Museums and Galleries Commission, Icomos UK, the Department of Culture, Media and Sport, Environment Agency, Portsmouth and South East Hampshire Partnership, PUSH

 

[Aims of the Portsmouth Harbour and Spithead as a World Heritage Site Group

The five conservation officers of five local authorities, Portsmouth, Gosport, Fareham, Winchester and the Isle of Wight, Defence Estates, Assistant Queen’s Harbourmaster, Portsmouth Naval Base Property Trust, Mary Rose Trust, Hants. and Wight Trust for Maritime Archaeology, Friends of Old Portsmouth and the five Civic Societies including the Portsmouth Society - very much based on local knowledge - began to discuss the proposed World Heritage site in November 2006.  They agree that the medium-term goals (set out in a separate document) are worth pursuing for the gains they offer, whether or not the proposal makes it onto the DCMS Tentative List.  These include integration of planning around the harbour - there is an opportunity in the draft local development frameworks; tall buildings policies recommended by English Heritage; joint tourist marketing, protection of marine industry, nature conservation, port matters, a centre for the study of climate change, protection of sites of marine industry and other issues.  Those who have special knowledge to contribute will be welcome to join the group.

                                                                                                                                              

The Dossier

This draft dossier sets out the case for Portsmouth Harbour and Spithead as a World Heritage Site.  Relevant documents such as the Dockyard Ports Act and The Dockyard Port of Portsmouth Order 2005 and other regulations are given as Appendices.  Conservation Area statements, SSSIs and RAMSAR sites, documentation on Listed Buildings and Ancient Monuments are also listed at the end.  Current condition and use will need to be added to each entry.  Illustrations are notional – and need to be fully supplemented – from sources in Portsmouth City Museum, Royal Naval Museum etc.]

 


 World Heritage List

 

Nomination Form

 

Convention concerning the protection of the world cultural and natural heritage

 

Under the terms of the Convention concerning the Protection of the World Cultural and Natural Heritage, adopted by the General Conference of UESCO in 1972, the Intergovernmental Committee for the Protection of the World Cultural and Natural Heritage, called ‘the World Heritage Committee” shall establish, under the title of “the World Heritage List”, a list of properties forming part of the cultural and natural heritage, which it considers as having outstanding universal value in terms of such criteria s it shall have established.

 

The purpose of this form is to enable State Parties to submit to the World Heritage Committee nominations of properties situated in their territory and suitable for inclusion in the World Heritage List.

 

This ‘Nomination Document’ has been prepared in accordance with the “Format for the Nomination of cultural and natural properties for inscription on the World Heritage List” issued by UNESCO.

 

The form has been completed in English and is to be sent in three copies to:-

 

The Secretariat

World Heritage Committee

Division of Cultural Heritage

UNESCO

Place de Fontenoy,

75352 Paris 07 SP

France

 

UNITD NATIONS EDUCATIONAL SCIENTIFIC AND CULTURAL ORGANISATION

 

 

 


 CONTENTS

 

                                                                                                                           Page

1.   Identification of Property

a)   Country

b)   Region

c)   Property

d)   Location

e)   Boundary

f)    Area of Property

 

 

2.   Justification for Inscription

a)   Statement of Significance of Portsmouth Harbour and Spithead

      the world’s first cultural seascape

b)   Comparative Analysis: National and International

c)   Authenticity and Integrity

d)   Criteria under which Inscription is Proposed

 

 

3.   Description

a)   Description of Property

  • The Natural Environment of the Nominated Site
  • The Archaeology of the Nominated Site
  • Area 1   Underwater and intertidal zone – Spithead
  • Area 2   Underwater and intertidal zone  - Portsmouth Harbour
  • Area 3   Portchester Castle
  • Area 4   H M Naval Base
  • Area 5   Preserved ships

·         Mary Rose

·         HMS Victory

·         HMS Warrior 1860

·         25 Holland I

·         HMS Minerva and other Twentieth Century ships

  • Area 6   Old Portsmouth
  • Area 7   Queen Street
  • Area 8   Fort Cumberland
  • Area 9   Fort Blockhouse and Haslar Hospital; the Submarine Museum
  • Area 10  Gosport High Street
  • Area 11  Cams Hall
  • Area 12  Priddy’s Hard
  • Area 13  Alverstoke and Stokes Bay
  • Area 14  Royal Clarence Yard
  • Area 15  Sea Forts and Puckpool Battery
  • Area 16  Portsdown Hill: Palmerston Forts and Nelson Monument
  • Area 17  Gunboat Yard and Ship Testing Tanks
  • Area 18  Ryde
  • Area 19  Southsea Seafront and Southsea Castle
  • Area 20  Fareham Creek
  • Area 21  Whale Island and Ferry Port
  • Area 22  Horsea Island, Tipner and Hilsea Lines
  • Area 23  HMS Daedalus and HMS Siskin/HMS Sultan

      ·        Area 24   Shipping and ferries

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 b)       History and Development

       i)             The Submerged Landscape -     Prehistory of the East Solent  including

             Spithead and Portsmouth Harbour

ii)                   History of the East Solent including Spithead as a shipping lane

       and anchorage

ii)               Portchester Castle – Roman Fort of the Saxon Shore

iii)              Portsmouth Dockyard – origins to sixteenth century

iv)              Southsea Castle and Henrician fortifications in the Solent

v)                Fort Cumberland

vi)              Palmerston’s Ring Fortress

vii)             Portsmouth Dockyard – development of the world’s largest industrial complex in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries

viii)           Portsmouth Dockyard – technological innovation: block-making, caissons, ship model-testing, victualling

ix)              Portsmouth Dockyard – nineteenth century, steam engine manufacture, steam dredger and the Great Extension

x)               Portsmouth Dockyard to HM Naval Base – twentieth century to twenty     first

xi)            The Development of specialist supporting establishments: Ordnance sites: Square Tower and Priddy’s Hard

xii)           The Development of specialist supporting establishments: Victualling: Royal Clarence Yard

xiii)          The Development of specialist supporting establishments Medical treatment: earlier hospitals and Haslar Hospital

xiv)          The Development and Significance of Dockyard buildings – dry docks, ropery, storehouses, workshops, foundry, shipbuilding sheds, small boat building and repair

xv)           The Development and Significance of Dockyard buildings – houses, offices, chapel, education

xvi)            The Development and Significance of the Submarine service

xvii)          The Development of towns around Portsmouth Harbour and Spithead:

Portsmouth, Fareham, Gosport, Ryde and their relationship to the navy and dockyard

xviii)         Planned urban developments in the nineteenth century:

Alverstoke and Owen’s Southsea; Ryde

xix)          The Significance of military and naval monuments and memorials around Portsmouth Harbour and Spithead

xx)           The Collections of the Royal Naval Museum, Royal Marines Museum,

Royal Armouries (Fort Nelson), Portsmouth City Museum, Gosport Discovery Centre, Westbury Manor Museum, Charles Dickens’s Birthplace, Cumberland House Museum, Eastney Pumping Station – and their links to the history of Portsmouth Harbour and Spithead

xxi)               The Significance of the Mary Rose, HMS Victory, HMS Warrior 1860 and Holland I

xxii)           Twentieth century technical and technological innovation: Admiralty Research Establishment, Admiralty Surface Weapons Establishment, Qinetic

 

c)       Form and Date of Most Recent Records of Property

d)       Present State of Conservation

e)       Policies and Programmes Related to the Presentation and Promotion of the Property

 

 

4.    Management

a)        Interests and Ownership

b)        Legal Status

c)        Protective Measures and Means of Implementing Them

d)        Agencies with Management Authority

e)        Level at which Management is Exercised

f)          Agreed Plans Related to the Property

g)        Sources and Levels of Finance

h)        Sources of Expertise and Training in Conservation and Management Techniques

i)          Visitor Facilities and Statistics

j)          Property Management Plan and Statement of Objectives

k)        Staffing levels

 

5.    Factors Affecting the Property

a)    Development Pressures

b)    Environmental Pressures – above ground; underwater

c)    Natural Disasters

d)    Visitor/Tourist Pressures

e)    Number of Inhabitants within the Property and Buffer Zone

f)     Transport Pressures

 

 

6.    Monitoring

a)    Key Indicators for Measuring State of Conservation

b)    Administrative Arrangements for Monitoring Property

c)    Results of Previous Reporting Exercises

 

 

7.    Documentation

a)    Photographs, Slides and Video

b)   Copies of Property Management Plans and Extracts of other Plans Relevant to the

      Property

c)   Bibliography

d)  Addresses where Inventory Records and Archives are Held

 

8.   Signature on Behalf of State Party

 

Acknowledgements*

 

David Brims, Hiscock Gallery

 

Plan of Her Majesty’s Dockyard   Royal Naval Museum

 

 “From hence, we descend gradually to Portsmouth, the largest fortification, beyond comparison, that we have in England.  The situation of this place is such, that is chose, as may well be said, for the best security to the navy above all the places in Britain: the entrance into the harbour is safe, but very narrow, guarded on both sides by terrible platforms of cannon, particularly on the Point; which is a suburb of Portsmouth properly so called, where there is a brick platform built with two tiers of guns, one over another, and which can fire so in cover, that the gunners cannot be beaten from their guns, or their guns easily dismounted; the other is from the point of land on the side of Gosport, which they call Gilkicker, where also they have two batteries.”

 

“Before any ships attempt to enter this port by sea, they must also pass the cannon of the main platform of the garrison, and also another at South-Sea-Castle; so that it is next to impossible that any ships could match the force of all those cannon, and be able to force their way into the harbour…”

 

“As to the strength of the town by land, the works are very large and numerous, and besides the battery at the Point aforesaid, there is a large hornwork on the south-side, running out towards South-Sea Castle; there is also a good counter-scarp, and double moat, with ravelins in the ditch, and double pallisadoes , and advanced works to cover the place from any approach, when it may be practicable. The strength of the town is also considerably augmented on the land-side, by the fortifications raised in King William’s time about the docks and yards, which are now perfected, and those parts made a particular strength by themselves.  These docks and yards are now like a town by themselves, and are a kind of marine corporation, or a government of their own kind within themselves; there being particular large rows of dwellings, built at the public charge, within the new works, for all the principal officers of the place.  The tradesmen likewise have houses here, and many of the labourers are allowed to live in the bounds as they can get lodging.”

 

The town of Portsmouth, besides its being a fortification, is a well inhabited, thriving, prosperous corporation; and hath been greatly enriched of late by the fleet’s having so often and so long lain there, as well as large fleets of merchantmen, as the whole navy during the late war; besides the constant fitting out of men here, and the often paying them at Portsmouth, has made a great confluence of people thither on their private business, with other things, which the attendance of those fleets hath required.  These things have not only been a great advantage to the town, but has really made the whole place rich, and the inhabitants of Portsmouth are quite another sort of people than they were a few years before the Revolution; it may be said, there is as much to do at Portsmouth now in time of peace, as there was then in time of war, and more so.”

 

“…The inhabitants indeed necessarily submit to such things as are the consequence of a garrison town, such as being examined at the gates, such as being obliged to keep garrison hours, and not be let out, or let in after nine o’clock at night, and the like; but these are things no people will count a burthen, where they get their bread by the very situation of the place, as is the case here. “  Daniel Defoe A Tour through the Whole Island of Great Britain 1724-6

 

 

‘The English royal dockyards, victualling yards and hospitals formed what are arguably the largest industrial centres in Britain before the Industrial Revolution, while their economic impact was out of all proportion to their size’  (Coad 1989).  

 

By the middle of the eighteenth century the royal dockyards and the navy had become 'by a large margin the largest industrial organisation in the western world’ (Rodger 1986).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1.   Identification of Property

 

!a)   Country

United Kingdom

 

b)   State, Province or Region

Portsmouth Harbour and Spithead, Hampshire and Isle of Wight, England

 

c)   Name of Property

Portsmouth Harbour, the Isle of Wight and Spithead – the world’s first Cultural Seascape to be inscribed on the World Heritage List

 

 

d)   Exact Location on Map and Indication of Geographic Co-ordinates to the Nearest Second*

 

The Site includes parts of the City of Portsmouth, Gosport Borough Council, Fareham Borough Council and the Isle of Wight Council, in the South East Region of England approximately 75 miles south-south west of London, the country’s capital city.

 

The Site contains two adjacent bodies of water: Portsmouth Harbour and Spithead between Portsmouth and Gosport and the Isle of Wight to the south. 

 

It includes the islands in Portsmouth Harbour and certain adjacent land sites, including the western and southern seaboards of Portsea Island as far as Fort Cumberland, Hilsea Lines, Portchester Castle, Cams Hall and Fareham Creek, Priddy’s Hard, Royal Clarence Yard, Gosport High Street, and Haslar Creek.

 

The Northern Boundary includes Forts Southwick, Purbrook, Southwick and Nelson on the brow of Portsdown Hill

Fort Purbrook  50 51.2N   01 02.2W
Fort Nelson    50 51.6N   01 08.1W
Fort Fareham   50 50.5N   01 11.0W
Fort Elson     50 49.3N   01 08.8W
Fort Brockhurst50 48.8N   01 09.0W
Fort Rowner    50 48.4N   01 09.2W
Fort Grange    50 47.8N   01 09.5W
No 2 Battery   50 47.1N   01 09.8W

 

The Southern Boundary includes Southsea seafront from Old Portsmouth to Fort Cumberland and the southern seaboard of the Borough of Gosport, including Gilkicker Point, Stokes Bay to Hill Head

 

Western Boundary: Hill Head to Fishbourne Creek in the Isle of Wight, along the contour of Ryde and Appley to include the seashore, including Puckpool Battery to Seaview High Street.

 

The Eastern Boundary runs from Seaview High Street, through No Mans Land and Horse Sands Fort to the eastern edge of Fort Cumberland at the entrance to Langstone Harbour

 

 

e)   Boundary of Nominated Site and Proposed Buffer Zone

The boundary of the nominated site is shown on Plan 2. 

The nominated site is divided into the following twenty areas shown on Plan 3

 


*Plan 1 Maps of Western Europe, the United Kingdom and South East Region

   

 

 Plan 2 Location Plan of Portsmouth Harbour and Spithead’s Nominated World Heritage Site and its natural and built environment

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*Plan 3 Plan of the Nominated Site divided into twentysix areas

  • The Natural Environment of the Nominated Site
  • The Archaeology of the Nominated Site
  • Area 1   Underwater and intertidal zone – Spithead
  • Area 2   Underwater and intertidal zone  - Portsmouth Harbour
  • Area 3   Portchester Castle
  • Area 4   H M Naval Base
  • Area 5   Preserved ships

·         Mary Rose

·         HMS Victory

·         HMS Warrior 1860

·         25 Holland I

·         HMS Minerva and other Twentieth Century ships

  • Area 6   Old Portsmouth
  • Area 7   Queen Street
  • Area 8   Fort Cumberland
  • Area 9   Fort Blockhouse and Haslar Hospital; the Submarine Museum
  • Area 10  Gosport High Street
  • Area 11  Cams Hall
  • Area 12  Priddy’s Hard
  • Area 13  Alverstoke and Stokes Bay
  • Area 14  Royal Clarence Yard
  • Area 15  Sea Forts and Puckpool Battery
  • Area 16  Portsdown Hill: Palmerston Forts and Nelson Monument
  • Area 17  Gunboat Yard and Ship Testing Tanks
  • Area 18  Ryde
  • Area 19  Southsea Seafront and Southsea Castle
  • Area 20  Fareham Creek
  • Area 21  Whale Island and Ferry Port
  • Area 22  Horsea Island, Tipner and Hilsea Lines
  • Area 23  HMS Daedalus and HMS Siskin/HMS Sultan

      ·        Area 24   Shipping and ferries

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*The proposed Buffer Zone is shown on Plan 4

 

The proposed Buffer Zone has been developed to ensure that future development in the setting of the nominated site respects the values of the nominated site.  The boundaries of the proposed buffer zone will be confirmed through a process of stakeholder consultation, during the on-going production of the World Heritage Site Management Plan.

 

f)    Area of Property

 

*The area of the nominated site is approximately  ha

*The area of the buffer zone is approximately   ha

 

 

 

*Plan 5 The Nominated Site, the Buffer Zone, Natural Features, Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 2.  Justification for Inscription

 

 

W L Wyllie   Portsmouth Harbour Royal Naval Museum

 

“ …it was April in its mild air, brisk soft wind, and bright sun, occasionally clouded for a minute; everything looked so beautiful under the influence of such a sky; the effects of the shadows pursuing each other on the ships at Spithead and the island beyond, with the ever-varying hues of the sea, now at high water, dancing in its glee and dashing against the ramparts with so fine a sound … “: Spithead as Fanny Price, Jane Austen’s heroine, saw it

In Mansfield Park

 

  

 

 

 


2A Statement of Significance

 

Introduction

 

Portsmouth Harbour, Spithead and the Isle of Wight as the first Cultural Seascape to be inscribed on the World Heritage List

 Statement of universal value

 

Spithead and Portsmouth Harbour merit international recognition for their rich and varied maritime cultural heritage on the theme  ‘Defence of the Realm’.  The site is a dynamically changing land- and seascape over many millennia.

 

The great natural harbour of Portsmouth on the south coast of England has significant pre-historic remains from the last ice age when it was shaped by the Solent River.  Spithead, the area of the Solent between Portsmouth and the Isle of Wight, and Portsmouth Harbour are framed to the north by Portsdown Hill, a chalk outcrop, and to the south by the hill on which Ryde in the Isle of Wight stands. From the earliest Paeleolithic period there is terrestrial evidence of human occupation which relates to evidence from both submerged landscapes and the inter-tidal area.   From the Mesolithic era there are peat deposits under water, preserved in various pockets where conditions allowed and stone tool finds.  From the Bronze Age there is growing evidence in the intertidal zone, mostly on the Isle of Wight shore, and peat deposits in the submerged landscape; from the Iron Age/Roman period: Porchester Castle and offshore finds of amphorae.  For the Saxon period there are fish traps on Peewit Island in Portsmouth Harbour and between Quarr and Wootton Creek. 

 

The site’s human history is in its geography: the combination of sheltered anchorage and large harbour easy to defend from enemy attack around its narrow entrance was why the Romans constructed Portchester Castle at the head of the harbour from 380 AD as one of Forts of the Saxon Shore, their largest  fortress in northwest Europe.  A Romanesque keep and church were added in the 11th century. From the seventeenth century Fort Cumberland defended the approach to Langstone Harbour, gaining its star fortress form in the eighteenth century.       

 

The historic towns of Fareham and Gosport on the western and north western shores of the harbour and Ryde Isle of Wight have significant social and economic links to the development of and supplies to the national defence.

 

Over the last four centuries, Portsmouth Dockyard has developed into a modern naval base with the full complement of supporting facilities around the harbour, many of them supplied by water: gunwharf, victualling, hospitals, ammunition stores and magazines. 

 

In the nineteenth century a ring fortress was constructed: massive land forts encircling the harbour along Portsdown Hill and in Fareham and Gosport, and four sea forts between Southsea, Ryde and Bembridge Isle of Wight and associated batteries such as Puckpool Ryde.  In Haslar Gosport there is a gunboat yard associated with the great Victorian engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel, who was born in Portsmouth in 1806.  These establishments and the historic towns around the harbour contain a significant architectural and engineering legacy. 

 

 ‘The English royal dockyards, victualling yards and hospitals formed what are arguably the largest industrial centres in Britain before the Industrial Revolution, while their economic impact was out of all proportion to their size’  (Coad 1989).  

 

By the middle of the eighteenth century the royal dockyards and the navy had become 'by a large margin the largest industrial organisation in the western world’ (Rodger 1986).

 

There are several technological world firsts associated with the harbour and its surroundings.  The most important is Block Mills, where the world’s first steam—powered mass production factory using metal machine tools was developed by Marc Brunel, Henry Maudeslay, Simon Goodrich and others.  Simon Goodrich devised the world’s first steam powered dredger.

 

Also in Portsmouth dockyard Samuel Bentham devised the first working caissons to close dry docks;  the first use of circular saws also occurred there. 

 

The ship-testing tanks in Haslar, Gosport were built by William Froude and his son in the 1880s - a facility which is still in operation. 

 

In 1910 Grange Airfield, already in War Office ownership and manned by the Royal Artillery, was developed on flat land between Fort Rowner and Fort Grange for experiments in ‘heavier than air’ flight, using a towed bi-plane wing built at the United Services College Windsor.  The wind tunnel in Fort Grange was used to test aircraft stability curves on aerofoil sections under the direction of Dr. A P Thurston (The History of Gosport Airfield 1956 Vivian Gibson. Key developments in flying training were devised from 1917 by Lt. Col Robert Smith-Barry, Commanding Officer of 60 Squadron based at Grange.  These became known as the ‘Gosport system’: trained instructors to teach the principles of flying, pupils in the pilot seat at the controls, communicating via the ‘Gosport Tube’.  In 1918 teams from Gosport traveled to America, France, Argentina and Chile; the Gosport System became the basis of all worldwide flying training. In 1925 Captain Lindbergh landed at Grange in the Spirit of St. Louis after his world record breaking flight to Paris.  The aircraft was boxed up and returned to the United States by ship. In the interwar years Grange airfield became a Royal Air Force Fleet Air Arm base and a centre of excellence for many early deck landing and aircraft catapult trials and aircraft torpedo development.

 

The Whitehead torpedo was developed in the diving lake at Horsea Island.  During WWII degaussing of ships was developed at HMS Vernon, and shipborne radar to detect aircraft in Eastney Fort East.  In the mid-twentieth century the invention of freeze drying took place in Royal Clarence Victualling Yard.

 

James Lind (1716-1794) Chief Physician at Haslar Royal Naval Hospital from 1762-1772  published ‘A treatise of the scurvy’ in 1753 based on comparative clinical trials; he also proposed distilling fresh water from sea water.  Haslar Hospital was designed by Theodore Jacobsen – at the time the largest brick building in Europe.

 

Portsmouth’s green seafront Southsea Common was for centuries the assembly point for armies and naval forces departing for war, preserving it - as a field of fire - from development until 1922, when it was purchased by Portsmouth Corporation.  It is now listed as a historic landscape.

 

D-Day in June 1944, the world’s greatest seaborne invasion was co-ordinated at Southwick House just to the north of Portsdown Hill; a large part of the invasion forces assembled in the area and left from Portsmouth dockyard – as did the Falklands Task Force in 1982. 

 

War Cemeteries: Haslar Hospital cemetery and the cemetery in Clayhall Road Gosport

contain significant memorials to British and foreign naval personnel.  Southsea and Gosport seafronts and Victoria Park Portsmouth have important memorials to international events launched from the area.

 

Preserved ships: Mary Rose, HMS Victory, HMS Warrior 1860 and Holland I represent key developments in warship design.  Mary Rose was raised from the Solent seabed in 1984; significant historic wrecks including Invincible, Edgar and Royal Sovereign and other important underwater heritage are identified in Spithead.

 

Ryde, Alverstoke and Southsea have significant Regency and early Victorian planned developments, including Owen’s Southsea, an early garden suburb developed by Thomas Ellis Owen from 1830-60, his Alverstoke Crescent and communal garden in Gosport, has been restored by the local community, as was Vernon Square in Ryde and the Porter’s Garden in HM Naval Base.

 

 

 Portsmouth City Museum

 

 

The role of Portsmouth Harbour and Spithead in World History

 

The history of Portsmouth Harbour and Spithead is in its geography: the combination of sheltered anchorage and large harbour easy to defend from enemy attack around its narrow entrance was why the Romans constructed Portchester Castle at the head of the harbour from 380 AD as one of Forts of the Saxon Shore, and also why the harbour developed as a major British naval base for the world-wide British Empire.  The history of Spithead as a naval anchorage for so many centuries makes it a key component of the World Heritage proposal. 

Together they merit international recognition for their rich and varied maritime cultural heritage, a unique ensemble of defence installations.   The theme of the proposal is ‘Defence of the Realm’. The Royal Navy continues to defend Britain’s national interests at sea, providing a record of activity over more than seven centuries.

 

Development of Portsmouth Dockyard and its supporting establishments

In the twelfth century Portsmouth was chosen by Richard I (1189-1199) for construction of a dock, probably in the area now occupied by Gunwharf, as a base from which to attack France.  The present Dockyard originated in 1495-6, when Henry VII (1495-1509), who is recognised as the founder of the Royal Navy, built the first known dry dock in England here. In 1511 Henry VIII (1509-1547), concerned at the growing naval power of James IV of Scotland, made Portsmouth the centre for a programme of ship building to create a Navy Royal.  The Mary Rose was built at Portsmouth in 1509-1511.  The precise location of the Tudor dockyard is not known, although it may have been on the site of Basin No.1 (Wessex Archaeology Volume 1 2004 p.13).*  

 

Jonathan Coad

 

 

 *The Industrial Revolution

‘Britain was the first country to undergo radical industrial transformation…not marked by a single event;…it had its origins in cultural, social and economic shifts that occurred throughout Britain and Europe during the early and mid-eighteenth century’ Maritime Mercantile City Liverpool Nomination of Liverpool Maritime Mercantile City for Inscription of the World Heritage List 200?.

 

‘By the middle of the eighteenth century the royal dockyards and the navy had become 'by a large margin the largest industrial organisation in the western world’

(Nicholas Rodger 1986).

 

* Tradition of Technological Innovation in Portsmouth Dockyard and supporting installations

Examples of outstanding innovation in dockyards – government establishments - perhaps reached a peak in Portsmouth.  Technological innovation – for example Henry Cort’s development of the puddling of iron at Funtley, near Fareham at the same time as Abraham Darby, and the development of the world’s first steam powered mass production factory in Block Mills in the Dockyard – was a key characteristic of the area.

 

 ‘The English royal dockyards, victualling yards and hospitals formed what are arguably the largest industrial centres in Britain before the Industrial Revolution, while their economic impact was out of all proportion to their size’  (Jonathan Coad 1989).

 

“Given the enormous scale of naval dockyards in the eighteenth century, making them unequivocally the largest industrial enterprises in the country, it is to be expected that they would have had an important impact upon contemporary innovation.  The part played by Dummer and later Bentham in dock design and caissons, and by Marc Brunel and Maudslay in machine tool manufacture and the establishment of the principles of production engineering in the Portsmouth block mill, is well known.  Nonetheless, the way the dockyards, drawing on public funds, were ale to influence private sector enterprise is a somewhat under-researched area.”  Ray Riley ‘Henry Cort and the Development of Wrought Iron Manufacture in the 1780s: the Naval Collection’ in Transactions of the Naval Dockyards Society Volume 3 November 2007   

 

*Development of wrought iron

“It was the demand for quality iron by dockyards that gave rise to the development of wrought iron, the base metal of the industrial revolution, by the private.  Inevitably during the nineteenth century wrought iron was much used in both ships and dockyard buildings, as Malcolm Tucker illustrates for Pembroke Dock….”One instance is that of Henry Cort, a little known ironmaster in a small way of business, but who by virtue of the demand for wrought iron at Portsmouth dockyard, successfully introduced two innovations which, according to one commentator ‘together founded British industrial supremacy in iron manufacture for the next (19th) century’ ( K T Rowland Eighteenth Century Inventions David and Charles 1974 p.19.)

The opinion is echoes by such notable industrial historians as HW Dickenson (HW  Dickenson ‘Henry Cort’s bicentennary’ Transactions of the Newcomen Society XXI 1940-1, 20).  Doubtless Cort’s innovations would eventually have been made by others in his absence, but the fact remains that the timing of his work was driven by demand in a state enterprise, enabling production of wrought iron, the fundamental metal of the industrial revolution, to increase more rapdly at an earlier date than would otherwise have been the case…..It is clear that Cort was concerned with methods of reducing costs and of improving quality, and indeed his experiments led Boulton and Watt to describe him as ‘a brother projector’ (TK Derry and Trevor I. Williams A Short History of Technology Oxford University Press 1960 477).  The outcome was two innovations for which he was to become famous.  A traditional tilt hammer used to raise the quality of the metal and to shape it as it cooled was theoretically capable of producing I ton of bars in a 12 hour period.  What Cort did was to employ grooved rollers to shape the metal, in so doing achieving an enormous leap in productivity, for at least in theory he was able to fashion 15 tons of bars every 12 hours.  …the gentler process of rolling in place of hammering resulted in a grain structure giving a stronger product. (RA Mott Henry Cort: the Great Finer. Creator of Puddled Iron The Metals Society 1983 40).  The rollers were certainly in place by December 1782 when Watt wrote to Boulton on the subject of their existence following a visit from Cort.  Cort was granted a patent for the system on 17 January 1`783.  The implications for the entire metal manufacturing industry need hardly be stated.  That a patent had been issued in 1728 to a John Payne for grooved rollers in iron bar manufacture, improbably powered by a windmill, and that similar rollers may have been employed in Sweden in 1745 by Christoph Polhem, might be regarded as undermining Cort’s inventiveness, even if Payne’s rollers were put into operation, but the fact remains that Cort was certainly the first to utilise the method commercially in Britain.”

 

“Cort’s second invention concerned the refining of cast or pig iron, made in a blast furnace, to produce wrought iron.  The traditional method was to heat cast iron in a furnace in which the impurities in the coal were allowed to mix with the metal, which was then hammered to remove carbon, the whole process being repeated many times.  …Cort modified the design of the furnace to allow a workman to stir the metal by means of a rod to facilitate exposure to the air, which combined with the carbon in the metal to form carbon monoxide, to improving quality.  The metal was then said to be decarburized. …The advantage of puddling over the use of pots in which only some of the metal was exposed to the atmosphere is clear; additionally puddling greatly speeded up manufacture, at the same time reducing price and raising quality.  Cort’s patent for this economic panacea was granted on 13 February 1784.  Between 1783 and 1786 iron made at Funtley for use in mooring chains, anchors, hooks, and ships’ bolts was extensively tested at Portsmouth and other naval dockyards, against Swedish Oregrund iron from Dannemore near Uppsala.  On balance Cort’s metal was found to be superior.  Once again the stimulus for the innovation, which remained the standard method of producing wrought iron well into the twentieth century, was the demand from Portsmouth dockyard.  Ray Riley ‘Henry Cort and the Development of Wrought Iron Manufacture in the 1780s: the Naval Collection’ in Transactions of the Naval Dockyards Society Volume 3 November 2007   pp51-55

 


*Steam powered Mass Production

Block Mills is the site of a world first: the first steam powered mass production factory using metal machine tools to make the hundreds of thousands of pulley blocks required by sailing ships.  It was developed by a constellation of brilliant engineers led by Marc Isambard Brunel, a French émigré who left his job as Chief engineer to marry Sophia Kingdom who he had met in Paris.  Her brother was Under-Secretary to the Navy Board.  Brunel had experimented with block making equipment in America.  When he returned to Britain he took out a patent and had models made of his first design by the engineer Henry Maudslay when he got the contract. The brilliant team of engineers included Simon Goodridge who developed the factory.  Block Mills was built over a small basin of 1791-8 used as a reservoir to the for the dockyard pumping system.  In 1799 a 12 horsepower steam engine invented by Sadler was installed, which powered the woodworking machinery by day and pumped water from a borehole into the reservoir by night. “The block-making machines were the earliest machine tools of substantial size (except clock-making tools) to be constructed entirely of metal a major advance in the history of mass production”. .  Ten men could produce the same number of pulley blocks -130,000 - as 100 men working by hand.  By 1806 45 machines and 10 men were producing 140,000 blocks a year.

 

                   

                 Block Mill & No.s. 35 & 36 Stores (Building No. 1/153) Main Road

 

*Circular saw

 

 


*Building Construction

Early uses of cast iron fire proof construction – Fire Station Fire Station (Building No. 1.77)

 

 

Grade II* The Fire Station in Portsmouth Dockyard, designed by Captain Beatson and Blake, the Master Shipwright was built in 1843-5 by Bramah and Fox of the London Works Birmingham to replace the timber tank serving the salt water ring main installed by Brigadier-General Bentham in 1800. It is an early example of a free standing iron-framed structure and it represents one of the earliest uses of cast iron columns in British dockyards (Coad p.23).  Two tiers of cast iron columns with arched girders supported a water tank with a capacity of 840 tons.  It incorporated a feature derived from greenhouse design, the use of the hollow cast column as a water pipe.  Water from the cistern was conveyed into the ring main through hollow columns placed on either side (Evans 2004 p.49). The structure was originally open-sided and the space beneath the tank used as a timber-seasoning shed, though only deal, because oak, especially, produced a chemical reaction with iron. The space under the tank was originally left open, but later enclosed in corrugated iron sheet, some of it of very early type.  It has two tiers of classical linked by girders with elliptical lower chords and open spandrels, including the wrought iron stays added to reinforce the structure - making the interior a forest of columns. The tank they supported was removed in 1950Water tower with timber store below and then fire station 1843-44, water tank removed in 1950.  the free standing iron frame tower replaced a wooden structure of about 1800 used for the salt water main.  The water tank held 840 tons of salt water.

 

Early use of large span prefabricated cast iron – Ship Shop No. 3

 


*Caisson development

No. 1 Basin. The Ship Basin was enlarged by Samuel Bentham from the 1695 original in 1801.  He decided to build the entrance as an inverted arch, the masonry set in Roman cement patented by Parker (Greenwood 2004).  This design was more durable than timber and leaked less.  He then invented and installed what may be the world's first working caisson.  The timber structure could be filled with seawater to sink it into the dock entrance, sealing the area from tides, then pumped out and refloated when access to the basin was needed (Wessex Archaeology 2003 p.39.).  This combination of inventions was a major contribution to dock engineering, and iron caissons soon followed (Riley 1985 p. 12). 

 

*Ship-testing tanks

The ship-testing tanks in Haslar, Gosport were built by William Froude and his son in the 1880s - a facility which is still in operation. 

 

*Weapons development

The Whitehead torpedo was developed in Horsea Island.

*The Whitehead torpedo circa 1880s onwards - 'The Devil's Device'

"But for the Whitehead (torpedo), the submarine would remain an interesting toy and but little more". (Admiral HJ May, 1906).


*Food processing

Freeze drying Royal Clarence Victualling Yard

 

Architectural and Engineering Legacy

*‘The Historic Dockyard at Portsmouth is of international cultural significance, with numerous 18th and 19th century naval buildings and structures’ (Wessex Institute of Technology p.vi).  Gunwharf, ordnance and victualling establishments developed around the harbour to service the navy. Defensive structures were built, notably in the reign of Henry VIII (the Henrician forts, including Southsea Castle), and from the 1860s the Palmerston ring fortress surrounding the harbour and Spithead to defend what became the largest industrial establishment in the world in the eighteenth century.  Supporting establishments were developed around the harbour over many centuries, and were the site of key technological innovations.

 

 

 

 

 

Jonathan Coad

 

 

*The Growth of the British Empire

‘The British Empire, was, at its peak, a vast conglomeration of disparate dominions and colonies held together by Britain’s naval dominance and mercantile strength’  Maritime Mercantile City Liverpool Nomination of Liverpool Maritime Mercantile City for Inscription of the World Heritage List 200?  Portsmouth Dockyard and its supporting establishments around the harbour as a key base for the Royal Navy was a significant factor in the success of the British Empire, crucial to its growth. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jonathan Coad

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

b)   Comparative Analysis: National and International

*CC to write this, using her research

 

c)   Authenticity and Integrity*

 

d)   Criteria under which Inscription is Proposed:

 

*       (ii) exhibit an important interchange of human values, over a span of time or within a cultural area of the world, on developments in architecture or technology, monumental arts, town-planning or landscape design;

 

*       (iv) be an outstanding example of a type of building, architectural or technological ensemble or landscape which illustrates (a) significant stage(s) in human history;

 

*       (v) be an outstanding example of a traditional human settlement, land-use, or sea-use which is representative of a culture (or cultures), or human interaction with the environment especially when it has become vulnerable under the impact of irreversible change;

 

*       (vi) to be directly or tangibly associated with events or living traditions, with ideas, or with beliefs, with artistic and literary works of outstanding universal significance.

 

 


Justification for inscription 2A

  •  The Natural Environment of the Nominated Site
  • The Archaeology of the Nominated Site
  • Area 1   Underwater and intertidal zone – Spithead
  • Area 2   Underwater and intertidal zone  - Portsmouth Harbour
  • Area 3   Portchester Castle
  • Area 4   H M Naval Base
  • Area 5   Preserved ships

·         Mary Rose

·         HMS Victory

·         HMS Warrior 1860

·         25 Holland I

·         HMS Minerva and other Twentieth Century ships

  • Area 6   Old Portsmouth
  • Area 7   Queen Street
  • Area 8   Fort Cumberland
  • Area 9   Fort Blockhouse and Haslar Hospital; the Submarine Museum
  • Area 10  Gosport High Street
  • Area 11  Cams Hall
  • Area 12  Priddy’s Hard
  • Area 13  Alverstoke and Stokes Bay
  • Area 14  Royal Clarence Yard
  • Area 15  Sea Forts and Puckpool Battery
  • Area 16  Portsdown Hill: Palmerston Forts and Nelson Monument
  • Area 17  Gunboat Yard and Ship Testing Tanks
  • Area 18  Ryde
  • Area 19  Southsea Seafront and Southsea Castle
  • Area 20  Fareham Creek
  • Area 21  Whale Island and Ferry Port
  • Area 22  Horsea Island, Tipner and Hilsea Lines
  • Area 23  HMS Daedalus and HMS Siskin/HMS Sultan

      ·        Area 24   Shipping and ferries

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Area 3 Portchester Castle

 

Portchester Castle

The best preserved Roman fortress in North West Europe and a key site for World Heritage designation.  Built by the Romans about 280AD to defend Britain against pirates.  In 380AD Portsmouth was the base for a large garrison.  One of a series of forts along the south and east coasts of England including Pevensey in Sussex and Lympne, Dover and Richborough in Kent.  The wooden military buildings have been excavated.  In 370AD Portchester’s importance declined as Clausentium (Bitterne) on the River Itchen now part of Southampton took over as the main defensive base for this end of the Saxon Shore. The Anglo Saxon chronicles describe a Saxon attack when Port, a Saxon, landed at Portsmouth and killed a leading Briton in battle.  This is the first time Portsmouth is mentioned - although of course there was no town there yet. It is ironic that one of the first Anglo-Saxon landings in the area was at the very place the Romans had defended to keep the barbarians out.

 

The village of Wymering nearby was a very early Saxon settlement on the important road along the south coast. The Portsmouth Society helped the campaign to keep Wymering Manor, the oldest house in Portsmouth, in the public domain - as a hotel.  It was bought by Portsmouth City Council in the 1960s and served as a Youth Hostel for 40 years until 2006.

 

The Norman king Henry 1100 - 1333 transformed the Roman fortress into a castle.  He used Portsmouth Harbour as a departure point for Normandy.  The tall keep and the St Mary’s Church were added inside the Roman walls.  The church was built in 1133 to serve a small priory but the monks moved out a few years later to Southwick because the soldiers in the garrison were too noisy.  The church has remained in use ever since to serve the castle and the village.  It has a fine west font with a magnificent entrance door richly decorated with three layers of zigzag decoration.  The C12 font has an almost Celtic or Northumbrian pattern of intersecting leaves, men, birds, plants and reptiles.

 

Portchester Castle is in the care of English Heritage and the keep has an excellent interpretation of the castle’s long history

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Area 4    H M Naval Base

 

HMS Warrior 1860, Watering Island, Chain Test House, King’s Stairs, Semaphore Tower, Storehouses 9-11, Boathouse No.4, Ropery, No. 1 Basin

 

The history of the naval base and of past and present buildings and engineering structures is described in detail in Wessex Archaeology’s two volumes (2004).  ‘The development and growth of the dockyard has continued to be a response to external political conditions and real or perceived military threats (and ambitions), as well as strategic judgements about the merits of the different dockyards around the coast’ [Chatham, Plymouth, Pembroke Dock and Rosyth].  ‘…The evolution of the dockyard has been a discontinuous process, characterised by episodes of expansion and innovation, with interludes of relative inactivity….’  (Wessex Archaeology 2004 p.15).  Surviving structures are described individually.

 

 

Wessex Archaeology  Map showing approximate date of construction of extant buildings and docks in part of HM Naval Base

 

 

No. 6 Boathouse, Hemp House and Ropery, Mary Rose shiphall (top left) Celia Clark

 

Victory Gate and Dockyard wall

Portsmouth Dockyard Wall Broad arrow mark behind Navy Pay office

 

Grade II*. The Portsmouth dockyard wall which follows the line of earlier earthen fortifications, dated from 1704-12.  The red brick wall varies in height from approximately 4 to 7 metres.  There is a former entrance to the Royal Naval Academy now blocked at Bonfire Corner, the date 1711 picked out in blue headers visible above pavement level.  The wall ends at the former gatehouse to the Marlborough Gate.  The wall generally follows the line of Sir Bernard de Gomme’s earth-rampart town defences constructed from 1665 onwards.  Victory Gate is the earliest entrance to a naval yard.  Topped by golden ball finials, the piers' smooth stucco contrasts with the local red brick of the wall. In 1942-3 the gateway was widened to allow for war traffic; the seaward pillar was rebuilt.

 

Former Detention Centre (Building No.1/2 Main Road

Grade II.  Former cell block of 1882-3, two storeys in red brick, with a passage along the north-west side with entrances to six brick vaulted cells with think doors with spy-holes.  Staircase removed when Victory Gate was widened; row of cells above with cast iron lavatory fittings on seaward end.

 

Porter’s Lodge (1708)

Grade II* Largely as built, the Porter’s Lodge is the oldest surviving building in the dockyard, though not the oldest extant dockyard building used by the Royal Navy, which is the Officers’ Terrace at Devonport of 1696 - almost destroyed by WWII bombing. The employment of a dockyard porter was initiated in 1649 by the first Admiralty Commissioner for Portsmouth, Colonel Willoughby.  The Porter was charged with guarding the security of the yard and its boundaries and as such commanded the watchmen.  He was also responsible for ringing the muster bell and locking the gates against latecomers.  In 1770 a basic system of policing the dockyards was laid down, and a civilian ‘Yard Warden’ was put in charge of 36-38 full time civilian warders by day and 80 par-time warders at night.  In addition, 100 military men and officers were on guard day and night.  A full time police force was formed in 1834 and in 1860 the Metropolitan Police took over the security of the docks at the request of the Admiralty.  The Lodge was extended to the north between 1716 and 1743.  In 1908 a new house was built next to the Porter’s Lodge to house the Police Superintendent, destroying some of the garden.   Stuccoed Flemish bond brick of two storeys with cellar and attic, the lodge has a double roof with plain tiles. Thee dormer windows with flat roofs.   The front (west) elevation has tall narrow windows with replacement 8-pane sashes of mid C19 type.  In six bays, the third window on the first floor is blind.  Many old timber fittings inside including some original panelling and cornices on the ground floor. The stair hall contains a doorway with a moulded architrave, a plain cornice, and arch with keystone and imposts.  The stairway is panelled to full height and between the first floor and attic has the original turned balusters, square newels and moulded handrail.  Door and window architraves on the first floor have attached columns and roundels in the corners and there is also some remaining panelling. The cellar has many original features: wooden partitions, cupboards with strap hinges, shelves with ogee mouldings; a wine rack; shot rack and chests, chamfered beams and joists and a stone flagged floor.     Originally the residence of the Dockyard Porter who was in charge of the watchmen, it is now occupied by Adams Poole architects and the Naval Christian Fellowship.

 

Visitor Reception Centre 1993-4 

New building designed by John Winter & Associates, a contemporary design ‘to echo some of the more striking features of the industrial buildings in the Dockyard. Constructed in galvanized steel framing with a glazed outer skin, it has a shallow pitched roof covered in corrugated metal and low emissivity double glazing set in metal frames.  The rear of the building was converted from a gift shop to a coffee shop in 2001.    It provides a comfortable space for visitors to discover what is on offer, gather information and purchase tickets’  (Portsmouth Naval Base Property Trust 2007).

 

Boathouse No. 4 1938-40

 

Celia Clark

 

A C20 addition to the earlier boathouses Boathouse 4 was built in the run up to WWII for the maintenance and repair of small motor craft up to 40 tons. It was not technically innovative for its date, nor is it considered by Wessex Archaeology ‘as stylish as some contemporary civilian factory buildings, but it does demonstrate naval adoption of contemporary building technology and the ‘international modern’ style.  It is the only boathouse known to have been constructed in a home dockyard during the rapid rearmament period of the late 1930s.  Historically it stands testimony to that crucial period, and indeed to the outbreak of war itself.  Thus it is a significant C20 contribution to the overall history of the dockyard and a rare example of Naval architecture from a period which mostly comprised dock widening.  In a more practical sense it protects the space and the older buildings to the east from sea winds’ (Wessex Archaeology Appendix 1).  The soaring interior was built round four massive cranes. It has an internal steel frame and ferro-concrete perimeter walls to three sides.  The south side has a ‘temporary’ elevation of corrugated iron dating from May 1940.  The building was planned to extend to Victory Gate in two phases, but construction was interrupted by the outbreak of WWII and only the first phase was completed.  Its four bays are divided internally by six steel lattice pillars.  The concrete floor extends over the sea supported on a substructure of concrete V beams supported by pre-case concrete piles and caps.  The riveted steel roof trusses support a predominantly saw tooth glazed roof; one bay has a pitched roof.  The original large steel windows to three elevations are still in situ.  Internally the large riveted steel frame construction is exposed, and much natural light enters the building through the large windows and rooflights. The boathouse was designed by four in-house engineers in the Civil Engineer-in-Chief’s Office, Admiralty Department.  E A Scott designed the Modern Movement elevations with their bands of horizontal windows and K F Buchanan J W D Ball and J Angell the interior structure.. There are two direct accesses to the sea inside. A tall dock gate opens to the dock 80 feet by 61 feet where craft could be lifted out and there are two locks to the Mast Pond behind.  During WWII the boathouse was used for the manufacture of midget submarines and D-Day landing craft for June 1944 as well as some experimental work.  During the Cold War, it was used for servicing and re-fitting small craft, although by 1995 this requirement had disappeared and the building ceased to be operational. In 1999 the mast pond lock gates were renewed.  It is currently used to restore the collection of small boats and other items belonging to Portsmouth Naval Base Property Trust and for special events such as the Victorian Christmas Fair and film-making.  In 2007 Eric Parry Associates designed a new future for it commissioned by the Naval Base Property Trust.

 

Proposed extension of Boathouse 4 Eric Parry Associates

 

 

 

Chain & Cable Test House and Store (Building No. 1/41) South Railway Jetty, Watering Island

Grade II Naval chain and cable test house and store with capstan and chain haulage-way on north side.  Large single-storey building in red and brown brick, mid C20 work in pink brick.  The building was designed to be fireproof. The interior has a cast iron frame of two aisles and a wooden block and granite setts floor, with haulage ways of iron ballast castings bearing the arrowhead design and letters ‘PO’.   The introduction of chain cables, testing machines had to be installed at the dockyards.  The first, probably designed by Goodrich and built by Bramah was installed at Woolwich in 1832, the sole hydraulic machine until 1842, when plans were drawn up for the foundations for a cable and anchor testing machine at Portsmouth.  Metal cables were far heavier than rope, and took up considerably more space.  Beatson drew up plans for a testing house and store in 1843 (Evans 2004 p.51). The Chain Testing House was built from 1844-47 on Watering Island to accommodate the first testing and storage facility.  It was extended in 1879-80  and later to add an annealing house and more powerful machinery.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Semaphore Tower Lion Gate

 

 

 

The original Semaphore Tower was one of a series built on high points forming a chain of signal stataions used to send messages to London and other parts of the country by flag code.  Original burnt down in 1913 rebuilt 1926-9. It houses the offices of the Queen’s harbour Master who controls a large sea area from south of the IOW along the Solent.  Semaphore Tower incorporates the Lion Gate of 1778, one of two gateways to the town of Portsea which originally stood in Queen Street next to Lion Terrace. It has a lion couchant in the pediment.  The gate was dismantled in the nineteenth century and re-erected here in 1929.  Listed Grade II.

 

 

 

The Royal Railway Shelter South Railway Jetty Building No. 1.45

Grade II. Cast-iron frame railway shelter of 1885 with 7 bays, built for the Royal Family’s comfort and convenience when leaving and boarding trains arriving in the dockyard from a spur from Portsmouth and Southsea Station to embark on the Royal Yacht. “An elegant piece of iron construction with broad elliptical arches supporting the roof”.  In 2006 the shelter on its cast iron base was mounted on a platform and moved around the corner to create space for mooring large ships such as aircraft carriers.

 

Railway Station & Waiting Room - South Railway Jetty (Building No. 1.47)

Grade II.  Railway station and waiting room of 1888 in redbrick with cast-iron columns supporting the wooden canopy. 

 

 Kings Stairs

Earliest part of the dockyard, originally called Coopers Jetty - where the barrels or casks made at Clarence Yard cooperage were delivered. Renamed the King’s Stairs after King George III in 1794 after the Battle of The Glorious First of June.  Traditionally this was the landing place for officers.  The present yellow brick building is where the Royal Maritime Artillery Service Pier Master controls all the dockyard boat movements, as well as the HQ of the Mooring and Salvage Officer

 

Statue of Captain Scott College Road

Grade II.  Designed by his widow, Lady Katherine Scott in bronze; granite and concrete plinth.

 

Statue of William II

Grade II, dated 1718 by Van Noss: gilt, aslar plnth and concrete podium.  Originally stood on parade ground in front of Long Row then in front of Admiralty House, moved to Main Road and then to College Road to the end of the Porter’s Garden.

 

Porter’s Garden

Modern Millennium garden designed and planted by volunteer members of the Hampshire Gardens Trust

 

Navy Pay Office (Building No. 1/11) College Road

Grade II.  Former Pay Office reputedly 1796 extended in 1808 by Edward Holl in brick vaulting supported by cast iron columns, strong room and safe.  Originally two storeys, now one, it is one of the earliest fireproof buildings in the south of England, and the earliest instance of the use of structural iron by the Navy (Coad 1989 p.48). The navy was at the forefront of technological development and experiment at that time (Greenwood 2004).

 

 

Royal Naval Academy (Buildings No.1/14, 1/16-19) College Road

Grade II*  1732 Education became increasingly important: naval academies such as those in Portsmouth, Poros, and Den Helder - offered education to officers, and the wide range of skilled craftsmen were trained through sought after apprenticeships and training schools. The finest educational building in the British dockyards is the first Naval Academy, set up at Portsmouth to train 'up to 40 young gentlemen for His Majesty's Service at sea, instead of the establishment now in force for volunteers on board His Majesty's ships'. Built between 1729-32 'the city's best building of the early eighteenth century' in blue-glazed brick with Portland stone courses, cornice and coping, 'domestic collegiate in character'. The projecting wings housed the Professor and Captain Superintendent. The domed octagonal cupola was added in the late 1760s over a gallery, where midshipmen conducted mock battles with model ships; and the golden ball on the top was used to teach the use of the sextant.  The frontage ground floor rooms of the Academy are used as a Wardroom: staff officers' mess, and until recently the other wings in the quadrangle and northern extension were used as to offices, but in summer 2006 they stand empty.

 

Admiralty House (Building No. 1.20) and attached railings, College Road

 

Grade II*.  By the middle of the eighteenth century the Commissioners at Portsmouth and Chatham had their own separate establishments, where they were expected to accommodate and entertain distinguished visitors including the monarch.  Samuel Wyatt recommended the replacement of the Portsmouth 1664 house which had been described as 'genteel and commodious' when George III came to stay. He enclosed plans for a new house with his report. In yellow brick with Portland stone dressings Admiralty House has a three-storey central block flanked by single storey balustraded links to tall pedimented bays with gauged brick arches over sash windows. An octagonal lantern was added later, as was a clumsy porch and other later excrescences. Over budget when built, and recently expensively refurbished, its size and grandeur is only rivalled by the Commissioner's House in Bermuda

 

Former School of Naval Architecture South Terrace (Building No. 1/22)

Grade II.  Also known as the School for Superior Apprentices, it was built in 1815-17 in yellow brick with limestone dressings in two storeys with a cellar.  Some panelled window and door reveals survive but the principal feature is the central imperial stair.  The building provided classrooms and accommodation for up to 25 apprentice shipwrights.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

No. 5 Boathouse (Buildings Nos. 1/27 and 1/28) Main Road

Grade II.  Few early British boathouses survive; but of those that do, the Chatham Lower Boat Store of 1844 and No. 5 of 1882 on site of earlier boathouse  and No.7 of 1885 in Portsmouth, timber framed with weatherboard cladding and small-paned sash windows. They rest on cast iron stilts over the mast pond of 1665.  One of a pair with No. 7 and with the Lower Boat House, Chatham, the last surviving examples of a once common type.  Later used as sail loft, now houses the Mary Rose Museum. 

 

Mast Pond, Docks 1-6, Quay walls and bollards including N & S Camber, Mast Pond and tunnel (under Boathouse4).

Grade I 1665, mostly mid C18-early C19 with C19 and C20 repairs.  A complete complex of late C18 and early C19 ship building and repairing docks, with associated quay walls and mooring fixtures such as bollards and fairleads.  The basin and docks are on eh site of the late C15 dockyard, the existing basin incorporates parts of the 1690 basin.  Quayside capstans were originally steam powered till converted to compressed air early in the C.20.  Noted by Coad as “the finest surviving group of such C18 structures in Europe”.

 

No. 7 Boathouse (Building No. 1/29) Main Road

Grade II.  Mast house of 1875 then boathouse, built over the Mast Pond on the site of an earlier boathouse.  Timber framed with weatherboard cladding. Restored and converted in 1993-4 ‘to multi-use including a 400-seat restaurant, children’s adventure play facilities, an education area, the Dockyard Apprentice exhibition, and a gift shop.  All partitions were restricted in height to preserve the sense of openness and to give visitors a better understanding of the building’s purpose.  This was further enhanced by the paint stains on the wooden floor which were left as testimony to many years of boat repair work.  The Trust replaced the corrugated iron roof with grey slate, similar to its original roof material (Naval Base Property Trust 2007)

  

 

 

Ropery, No. 15 Store (Building No. 1/62) Anchor Lane

Grade II* Listed 13/08/99 Portsmouth's Double Rope House of 1771.  Also known as East Sea Store. The oldest extant UK ropeyard building, .and the first in brick.  It forms part of one of the largest integrated group of C18 industrial buildings in the country.  Three storeys and cellar,  its dimensions are 1030' X 57'.  Laying was carried out on the ground floor with spinning on the upper two floors. It was unaltered after a fire started by an American sympathiser in 1776, except for the cutting through of archways for College Road until the 1950s, when the roof, one end wall and the interior floors were removed.  The roof was rebuilt without the dormers. 

 

Hemp House No. 17 Store (Building No. 1/64) Anchor Lane

Grade II* Dated 1781 red brick three storey with cannon barrel bollards at NW and SW corners of building.

 

St. Ann’s Church, (Building No. 1/65) Anchor Lane

Listed Grade 11, the first chapel inside Portsmouth dockyard was built in 1704 paid for by the dockyard officials and craftsmen, naval officers and men near the site of the present Admiralty ouse. 'A typical red brick Georgian preaching box', it was rebuilt from 1785-7 possibly by Marquand as St Ann's Church, concurrently with the building of Admiralty House.  These were built under the control of Mr Marquand, the Surveyor of Works in the Dockyard, supervised by the young Thomas Telford, who had been a stonemason on the building of Somerset House. St Ann's Church is the only purpose-built dockyard English church still in regular use as a church. The west end was shortened by one bay after serious bomb damage in 1941. It was rebuilt in 1955-6 using the original drawings with a replica west front and cupola, the beautiful plaster ceiling rose kept in situ while the roof and galleries were renewed.  The oldest surviving chapel in a naval yard.

 

Nos. 18  & 19 Stores Stony Lane

Grade II*.  Known as the Double Ropehouse and Hatchelling House.  Hemp Store of 1771, linking bridge late C18 to early C19, the double ropehouse of 1771-75 was remodelled as a storehouse in 1868.  No. 19 Store is two storeys and No. 18, the former ropehouse which is 1095 feet long has three storeys and an attic.  This is the sixth great ropehouse to stand on the site since 1665.

 

Short Row Buildings Nos. 10-14

Grade II (1787), a terrace of five redbrick houses, three storeys and a basement, with a Portland stone first floor band course, was built under the supervision of Thomas Telford.  No. 14 has a large amount of original fittings still in place.  Attached railings and garden walls are included in the listing.

 

  

Fire Station (Building No. 1.77)

 

 

Grade II* The Fire Station in Portsmouth Dockyard, designed by Captain Beatson and Blake, the Master Shipwright was built in 1843-5 by Bramah and Fox of the London Works Birmingham to replace the timber tank serving the salt water ring main installed by Brigadier-General Bentham in 1800. It is an early example of a free standing iron-framed structure and it represents one of the earliest uses of cast iron columns in British dockyards (Coad p.23).  Two tiers of cast iron columns with arched girders supported a water tank with a capacity of 840 tons.  It incorporated a feature derived from greenhouse design, the use of the hollow cast column as a water pipe.  Water from the cistern was conveyed into the ring main through hollow columns placed on either side (Evans 2004 p.49). The structure was originally open-sided and the space beneath the tank used as a timber-seasoning shed, though only deal, because oak, especially, produced a chemical reaction with iron. The space under the tank was originally left open, but later enclosed in corrugated iron sheet, some of it of very early type.  It has two tiers of classical linked by girders with elliptical lower chords and open spandrels, including the wrought iron stays added to reinforce the structure - making the interior a forest of columns. The tank they supported was removed in 1950Water tower with timber store below and then fire station 1843-44, water tank removed in 1950.  the free standing iron frame tower replaced a wooden structure of about 1800 used for the salt water main.  The water tank held 840 tons of salt water.

 

The Parade Nos. 1-9

Grade II* The Parade (or Long Row) was built in 1717, In Portsmouth dockyard, domestic buildings are as grand as their civilian equivalents, whilst Admiralty House is by Samuel Wyatt 1782-66 (Lloyd 1974 p.66; Wessex Archaeology 2003 p.91).  A plain brick terrace for nine Principal Officers, The Parade or Long Row almost certainly designed by master shipwrights in a traditional square plan, in red brick with recessed panels, was built between 1710 and 1715, in three storeys with a basement and panelled parapet.  Between 1770 and 1840 the west elevation was stuccoed with plain coursing joints.  At about the same time, enclosed glazed entrance porches approached via a short flight of steps were added.  To the rear of each house, which is still in the original brick, were detached kitchens and servants' quarters in long gardens. When the houses were complete the Navy Board ordered that the old houses should be taken down with care 'so that the material might be reused...in building four additional houses'. Economy rather than conservation was presumably the reason for this example of architectural salvage. 

 

Commissioner's Stables Building No. 1/21

Grade II. Dockyard Commissioner’s stables of 1740, two storey red brick and some C18 panelling on both floors; C.19 and C20 alterations.

Spithead House No. 9 the Parade

Grade II* Spithead House (renamed Mountbatten House) was remodelled at right angles to the southern end of the Parade in Portsmouth in 1832 to house the port admiral, a newly created post. It has a grand porch with paired Doric columns, to house the Admiral Superintendant of the dockyard. Interesting diagonal iron lattice baluster to the staircase, and

an ice house of c.1840 in the garden.

Iron and Brass Foundry (Building No. 1.142)

Grade II (1854)  In red brick, it has two tiers of recessed round-headed windows emphasised in banded brick rustication.  The patternmaker's shop is on the top floor with a cleverly constructed water tank above which is an early sprinkler system. The building ceased to be used as a foundry in the 1980s; in 2004 it was converted to an office and laboratory by BAe systems.

 

The handsome Vanbrugh-style Portsmouth), possibly by Denison designer of the Steam Factory, No.2 Ship Shop.


Dock No.8 & Dock No. 11 1863

 

Dockyard Laboratory 1848

 

 

 No. 6 Boathouse College Road (Building No. 1.23) and slipway to front

 

Grade II*. A major advance in technology is represented by No.6 Boathouse at the back of the Portsmouth mast pond. Like the Sheerness boathouse it is an impressive pioneering structure in iron. ‘It was a product of the 1843 planned extension of the dockyard, the result of the introduction of steam technology to ships and shipbuilding’ (Wessex Archaeology Appendix 2). Completed in 1844, its design is attributed to Captain R.T. Beatson RE. In three storeys, it is five-sided: a rectangle with a diagonal wall built across the south east corner. The boathouse has an austere classical facade in yellow Flemish bond brickwork with an ashlar Portland stone plinth, an ashlar band over the ground floor on the west elevation, and a stone eaves band and cornice with a parapet disguising three pitched roofs running from west to east.  These were recently covered in sheet metal.  There is a tapering brick chimney with a cornice at the south-west edge.  To the rear of the building the 1999 auditorium pierces the roofline.  The windows were replaced in the twentieth century with metal frames under flat brick arches; they have projecting ashlar sills.  Eared round arched rubbed brick architraves and tripartite keystones frame the three loading doors for the movement of boats. The west side ground level is lower for access to the mast pond. 

 

The conventional exterior of the boathouse contains one of the earliest buildings to use load-bearing iron framed construction on such a massive and sophisticated scale. Its great glory is the dramatic interior of massive iron columns supporting the shorter spans with arched girders and the longer ones with trussed girders.  The timber floor boards rest on cast iron joists.  The magnificent ground floor has a regular march of cast iron columns, cast iron segmental arch beams across short spans and cast iron trussed beams for the wider spans to enable the upper floors to store small craft.  The cast iron beams have wrought iron tie bars tensioned to resist bending.  ‘Each girder is trussed with iron tie bars of the designed used by Robert Stephenson in some of his early bridges’ (Wessex Archaeology Appendix 1).  Instructions on the beams state: ‘The load on each girder should not exceed 40 tons equally distributed over its length’ (Riley 1985,16) - far exceeding the weight of ships’ boats at the time.  The building was in fact massively over-engineered.  ‘Probably one of the last uses of trussed beams before the Dee Bridge disaster discredited their use’ (Wessex Archaeology ibid).  It was, like some technology-led buildings since, a failure in practice, described as ‘totally unsuited either for a Working Boat House, or a Boat Store, as it was too cramped, and it was awkward to shunt and rearrange boats within it.  It remains an interesting indicator of the state of structural understanding in the mid-1840s, if a dead end in constructional development.  Lessons learnt from it were applied as the innovative boathouse at Sheerness (Evans 2004 pp.53, 54).   It is of great significance in the general history of the dockyard, as well as for its technical and architectural importance.  Coad (1898, 46) describes Boathouse No. 6 as ‘a remarkable arrangement of massive cast-iron columns and tensioned beams…unparalleled in any other naval building’.  Bomb damaged in the Second World War, it served as communications centre of the dockyard until the 1970s.  Much of the original fabric survives.  Extensive repair work was undertaken from 1999 to 2001, including the removal of parts of the building and alterations for new uses – with the agreement of English Heritage, which wished the cast iron framework to remain on display to the public.  The architects for the development were MacCormac Jamieson Prichard. At a total cost of £16.4m, the project was an important element in the Renaissance of Portsmouth Harbour Scheme, which was 50% funded by grant from the Millennium Commission.  The Trust secured the remaining finance from matched funding, sponsorship and bank loan.  The ground and first floors currently houses ‘Action Stations’, a visitor attraction about the modern navy.  A free standing structure, a new cinema auditorium supported on slanted modern columns was inserted at the back of the building where WWII bombing damage had removed a section of roof and structure at first and second floor levels.  An uncompromisingly modern glass walled external stairwell was added to allow direct access to the self contained second floor office suite, originally occupied by the University of Portsmouth’s Institute of Maritime Heritage Studies.  Sustainability, energy efficiency and accessibility were important factors in the design brief, all of which were highlighted by the Civic Trust when it granted Boathouse 6 an Award in 2003.  The project also won the Portsmouth Society Best Restoration award in 2002 and was commended by English Heritage as ‘one of the best examples of the sensitive handling of modern architectural interventions in historic buildings’ (Portsmouth Naval Base Property Trust  20 Year Review 1986-2006 2007 P.11)

 

 

Opening Banquet inside No. 6 Boathouse 1845

 

Storehouses 9, 10 and 11

The British 'functional tradition' of large scale late Georgian buildings of brick and timber construction had its origins in the ropehouses and storehouses of the naval dockyards, exemplified as a group and in their scale, by the surviving buildings at Portsmouth (Wessex Archaeology 2003 p.89).

                             

Portsmouth Storehouses                                      Interior

 

A huge variety of raw materials and goods needed to be stored in the English dockyards: "hemp from the Baltic, iron from Sweden, timber from the royal forests and private estates, from Scandinavia and North America, glass from the Midlands and lead from the Mendips" (Coad op. cit). Equipment processed in the yard, sails, masts, hemp, paint, rigging and timber, iron and many other items all needed to be stored near to the quays, for fitting out or for replenishing stocks, or as reserves of essential items in the event of war. Until the end of the eighteenth century storehouses were designed by the yard officers and treated as utilitarian buildings. Their very plainness and their functional quality gives them a dignity and monumentality which still dominates the surviving historic core of all three yards. From 1760 to 1805 store buildings were continually added in all three yards, few now used for their original purpose, but their sound construction and pleasing design is a monument to the skills of the yard officials, whose main work was the building

and repair of ships.

In Portsmouth, a handsome range of three storehouses was built: No.9 of 1763, No.11 of 1776 and No.10 1772, three storeys of thirteen bays in red brick with Portland stone dressings and hipped slate faced mansard roofs. At the centre of No.10 which dominates the view down Anchor Lane is a rusticated stone archway. The clock tower and cupola were badly damaged in 1941, and rebuilt in 1993. No 11 at the northern end has the best preserved interior. The three storehouses now line the approach to HMS Victory and the

Mary Rose.

Built as a part of the major programme of reconstruction of the dockyard in 1760, when wooden storehouses were replaced by more substantial ones in brick.  No 9 1772, No 19 1776 central, plus cupola, No 11 1763 prototype (Riley 1985).  Handsome Palladian style in Fareham red brick and Portland stone dressings to store hemp from the Baltic, iron from Sweden and the Forrest of Dean, timber from the Royal forests and private estates from Scandinavia and North America, glass from the Midlands and lead from the Mendips (Code 1989).

 

Build by London contractors Templar, Parlby and Templar (Riley 1985).  Timber salvaged from the decks of old ships waiting to be broken up including French and Spanish prizes used as flooring, window frames and doors.

 

The young Thomas Telford, the great Scottish engineer, worked on the storehouses, possibly as a stonemason.  On June 8 2007 a plaque to him was unveiled by the President of the Institution of Civil Engineers South East branch.

 

Listed Grade I.  No. 10 restored and reconstruction of the Clock Tower in 1991-2, and No. 11 restored by Portsmouth Naval Base Property Trust from 1988-1992

 

Victory Gallery

 

 

South Office Block In 1786 the west wing of what is now the South Office Block was built, the earliest surviving example of specialist dockyard offices in Britain. The administrative staff which controlled the vast enterprise of British dockyards and victualling yards, the Admiralty and Navy Boards, and the Commissioners for Victualling and the Sick and Hurt were based from 1786 in Somerset House, London, with a small Navy Board outstation in each of the main dockyards only numbered about 300 by 1800. In contrast to the grandeur of Somerset House, the dockyard office buildings are plain but elegant.  The senior yard officers were required to live near their place of work; by 1700 they were expected to live in houses within the yard boundary.

At Gunwharf on Portsmouth Harbour the Customs or Vernon office block (c1790) of  sober Georgian design and cellular plan facing the Vernon Creek is one of the earliest examples of specifically designed office buildings, predating the North and South Office Blocks in the Dockyard.

 

 

 

 

No. 1 Basin

Examples of outstanding innovation in dockyards perhaps reached a peak in Portsmouth.   The Ship Basin was enlarged by Samuel Bentham from the 1695 original in 1801.  He decided to build the entrance as an inverted arch, the masonry set in Roman cement patented by Parker (Greenwood 2004).  This design was more durable than timber and leaked less.  He then invented and installed what may be the world's first working caisson.  The timber structure could be filled with seawater to sink it into the dock entrance, sealing the area from tides, then pumped out and refloated when access to the basin was needed (Wessex Archaeology 2003 p.39.).  This combination of inventions was a major contribution to dock engineering, and iron caissons soon followed (Riley 1985 p. 12). 

 

 

 

Block Mill & No.s. 35 & 36 Stores (Building No. 1/153) Main Road

 

Grade I.  Site of a world first: the first steam powered mass production factory using metal machine tools to make the hundreds of thousands of pulley blocks required by sailing ships.  It was developed by a constellation of brilliant engineers led by Marc Isambard Brunel, a French émigré who left his job as Chief engineer to marry Sophia Kingdom who he had met in Paris.  Her brother was Under-Secretary to the Navy Board.  Brunel had experimented with block making equipment in America.  When he returned to Britain he took out a patent and had models made of his first design by the engineer Henry Maudslay when he got the contract. The brilliant team of engineers included Simon Goodridge who developed the factory.  Block Mills was built over a small basin of 1791-8 used as a reservoir to the for the dockyard pumping system.  In 1799 a 12 horsepower steam engine invented by Sadler was installed, which powered the woodworking machinery by day and pumped water from a borehole into the reservoir by night. “The block-making machines were the earliest machine tools of substantial size (except clock-making tools) to be constructed entirely of metal a major advance in the history of mass production”. .  Ten men could produce the same number of pulley blocks -130,000 - as 100 men working by hand.  By 1806 45 machines and 10 men were producing 140,000 blocks a year.

 


 

 

Coad 2006

Site of No 3 Ship Shop

“The mighty No. 3 Ship Shop” was built of prefabricated iron parts made in London in 1845-6 - pre-dating the great Victorian railway stations.  It was designed to cover two slipways where ships were built or repaired. In Portsmouth Captain Beatson designed Nos. 3 and 4 covered slips.  They were built to his plans of 1845 by Baker & Son of Lambeth.  Each main truss was composed of six separate castings bolted together, using permanent scaffolding, for many years the largest structure on Portsmouth Harbour. As said, these predate the great stations of Paddington and Newcastle, usually described as the first examples of this form of construction.  No. 3 Ship Shop’s soaring spaces were tremendously impressive as a piece of structural engineering. The dockyard has several early uses of cast iron used as a fireproof material - in the Navy Pay Office 1798 and No 6 Boathouse and the Fire Station, both 1843. No 3 Ship Shop was demolished in the early 1970s but its contemporaries and successors survive in Chatham.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

No 2 Steam Basin

Many navies developed considerable manufacturing capacity inside the yards, especially of rope.  This was replaced by wire for hawsers from the 1850s. Foundries with their associated pattern shops and moulding floors, smitheries, chain testing shops and sail- and colour-lofts in large yards employed thousands of skilled people. Steam engine factories and associated basins were developed. Nasmyth’s steam hammers were introduced, first based on his design in France and then in Britain. Brest began to convert from wood to steam-powered ironclads in 1850 (Winkareth p.212). Chatham was the first British dockyard to begin constructing ironclads.  A 300 acre extension was built on top of St. Mary's Island from about 1865.  The Dreadnought era in the UK which was when Portsmouth dockyard reached its apogee was matched by construction of very large armoured vessels in the French arsenals (Brossard 1975) and Germany (Greenwood 2004).  Power stations and power transmission systems around yards were developed.  In 1870-71 after the reunification of Italy the first dry dock was constructed in the Venetian Arsenale, and in 1910-11 a further two were added to the north east.

 

Opened in 1848 by Queen Victoria steaming into the basin in the Royal Yacht.  The Steam Basin is a product of the early Victorian industrial age.  It was part of a major extension of the dockyard on reclaimed land between 1843 and 1848 when stem propulsion was beginning to be adopted by the Royal Navy.  Steam power was introduced very slowly and reluctantly. The first steam propelled ship seen in Portsmouth was the new ferry to Ryde paddle steamer in 1825.  In 1845 Queen Victoria reviewed the fleet at Spithead in her steam yacht, the Victoria and Albert.  It was only after the Crimean war that large ironclads such as the Warrior were built for the navy.

 

Parallel to the steam basin is the No. 2 Ship Shop of 1847-9 in the style of Vanbrugh to construct ships’ steam engines.  Immense façade 25 bays in red brick with Portland stone dressings.  More elaborate decorations including pediments and stone quoins every fifth bay: “the Architecture of Power, truly symbolising the strength of the Navy in its nineteenth century heyday” Lloyd 1974.

 

Construction of C Lock ? Royal Naval Museum collection

 

No. 3 Basin – the Great Extension

Portsmouth dockyard's 'Great Extension' which more than doubled its size, from 116 to 300 acres opened in 1876.  The new facilities included a 14 acre Fitting Out Basin, a 17 acre Rigging Basin and a 22 acre Repairing Basin, all linked and giving access via two locks to a Tidal Basin, which had a further dry dock.  The Rigging and Fitting Out Basins were not finished until 1881.  The soil removed from the new basins, mainly using convict labour and steam powered excavation equipment such as steam dredgers and grabs (Wessex Archaeology 2003 p.55) was deposited by conveyor onto Whale Island, just over I km to the north-east.  Whale Island was subsequently developed as the Naval Gunnery School (HMS Excellent).  New workshops included an electrical shop and foundries, some of them such as the Armour Plate Workshop (1867), the Gun Mounting Shop (1886), and Torpedo Store (1886) as a direct response to current technological developments.  These were also applied to traditional mechanisms: for example a successful steam powered version of the sheer legs used for lifting heavy weights such as masts was constructed.  By 1890 the Portsmouth workforce was 7,615 (Wessex Archaeology 2003 p.55).

 

North Wall of dockyard

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Area 6    Old Portsmouth

Spur Redoubt

Small triangular fortification 1680 by Sir Bernard de Gomme to strengthen a vulnerable area in the fortifications of Portsmouth town. Believed to be the point from which Admiral Nelson set sail for the battle of Trafalgar on board HMS Victory.  Bridge restored by Hampshire County Council.  Balustrades used timber from great storm of 1987.  New bridge across tidal moat to Kings Bastion via a sallyport 2006.  Kings Bastion is the only one of the C17 or C18 angle bastions still surviving Victorian clearance of Portsmouth’s fortifications.  Long Curtain links it to the Saluting Platform.

 

Royal Garrison Church

Originally a Pilgrim’s hospice founded about 1212.  Charles II married Catherine of Braganza, Portuguese Princess in 1662.  Nave badly damaged by bombing in 1941, roof completely destroyed.  Open to sky as a tribute to those who lost their lives.  In care of English Heritage.

 

Saluting Platform an 10 Gun Battery

Constructed late 15th century to provide elevated gun sights near harbour mouth.  Outline of main guardhouse visible in Grand Parade where troops assembled for attendance at Garrison Church.  Nelson’s stature moved in 2006 from further east to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the Battle of Trafalgar 1805.

 

10 Gun battery adapted in C18 C19 to serve as additional defence with 10 guns.

 

 

Square Tower

Designed as a gun platform in 1494.  One of Portsmouth’s earliest defence structures.  Later used a military governor’s residence, a powder magazine and meat and water store.  In 1923 Admiralty installed a semaphore station on top of the tower which remained until 1848.  Now run by Portsmouth City Museums.  Restored 1979-86.  Top wedding venue in Portsmouth. 

 

Victoria Pier on site of earlier jetty from which gunpowder, and later meat, was ferried to wooden ships anchored at Spithead. Used to be known as the Old Beef Stage.  In 1817 the steam packet service to and from the Isle of Wight began. Built originally as calling-point for coastal paddle steamers. Turned into a pier in 1842.  Most structure washed away in 1925.  2007 closed awaiting structural survey. 

 

Point Beach

Gradually becoming more sandy.  Defended by Flanking Battery. Used by a group of 365 day bathers.

 

Sallyports

Sallyports are openings in the fortifications gave access to the beach and the sea.  Often used by sailors waiting with their boats for orders. Falklands memorial is just inside main Sallyport.  One Sallyport for officers and one for men.

 

18 Gun Battery

The last section of Sir Bernard de Gomme’s fortifications to be completed in the 1680s. Although this is disputed, some associate the name Hot Walls with the battery - where hot shot was said to be prepared during the Spithead Mutiny of 1797.

 

Round Tower

Built in 1415 to defend the narrowest part of the harbour.  Henry V ordered construction of the tower and another across the harbour in Gosport after the French had attacked Portsmouth six times during the Hundred Years War.  Ground storey probably dates from the time of Henry VIII c 1538-40. Originally had eight gun ports under flat segmental arches.  Gun ports blocked probably under de Gomme when his adjoining 19 Gun Battery was built.  Upper two storeys probably rebuilt during Napoleonic times.  Interior reconstructed with massive brickwork, casemates being formed behind surviving gun ports.  Work comparable with that on the Martello Towers.  In c1847-50 the top was reconstructed, shortened by 6 feet and adapted to form gun positions.  The seaward fortifications were restored and converted into a public walkway by the City Council’s Historic Buildings Architect in the 1970s. The landward battery was cut back, the site marked in granite sets.

 

Tower House

Home of renowned marine artist William Wyllie. The green spire is based on a village church in Switzerland where he was married.  Tall north facing studio windows towards dockyard.

 

Capstan Square: cross-harbour chain

Links of the Tudor chain were discovered in the beach below the round tower in the 1930s - now on display in Southsea castle. In the early 20th century, a steam powered floating pontoon was installed opposite Blackhorse Cottage replacing the chain.  The brick engine house is still there in the sailing club’s yard.

 

Portsmouth Cathedral of St. Thomas
‘The Church of St. Thomas à Becket, now the Cathedral at Portsmouth was founded about 1180, at the instigation of John de Gisors, a merchant who had interests in the incipient port, as well as, probably, in London.  It was in the established parish of St. Mary, Portsea (whose small rural church stood in the middle of Portsea Island, where the great St. Mary’s stands today), and, to start, had the status only of a chapel, not a parish church.  Southwick Priory already held the patronage of St. Mary’s parish, and became the patron of the new St. Thomas’ too, providing the clergy and, very probably, supervising the building work.  There is a record that St. Thomas; was being built in 1185 and that part was consecrated in 1188 – probably the eastern part, since new churches were usually begun from the east, but we cannot be certain.  In 1196 the churchyard and two transept altars were dedicated.  The church, as originally built, was cruciform, with a central tower.  The tower and nave, badly shaken in the Civil War, were rebuilt in 1683-93, leaving the medieval chancel, chancel aisles and transepts, which are the oldest and finest parts of the present Cathedral.’

 

The architecture of the chancel (now the sanctuary of the enlarged Cathedral) is, in many ways, unusual.  It is small in scale but has a decided monastic, rather than a parochial, quality.  The most remarkable feature is the arrangement of the arches between the main space of the chancel and the aisles.  These (four on each side) are paired, each pair being contained within a much wider framing arch (the arches proper are pointed, the framing arch is rounded).  This is an almost unique arrangement – it is only found elsewhere (in England) in the slightly later Boxgrove Priory, east of Chichester, although it may, or course, have existed in other churches long since destroyed.  The main piers between each pair of arches are thick and octagonal.  The smaller piers between the two arches of each pair are thin and round, and were originally of Purbeck marble, the fine black stone from Corfe Castle in Dorset, which was much used in details of great churches in the thirteenth century (as at Salisbury); Portsmouth was one of the first places where it was so used.  Unfortunately the original Purbeck piers do not survive; the present ones are recent replacements in (Irish) black marble.  The mouldings of the arches are delicate and subtle, and characteristically Gothic’…(’called in this country, ‘Early English’) of the thirteenth century.’. 

 

‘The chancel was originally stone-vaulted; the present vaulting is a convincing substitute in plaster executed by the architect Thomas Ellis Owen in 1843.  The vaulting of the aisles is, however, entirely original, with diagonal and transverse ribs, moulded like the arches, springing from the piers of the arches on one side, and from the tops of elegant trefoil shafts on the other.   The effect, as one looks along these vaulted aisles, is particularly satisfying, since each bay is square, the aisle being (roughly at least) as wide as each of the arches into the chancel.  By contrast, each vaulting bay of the main chancel corresponds in width with the wider containing arches on either side – a very neat arrangement possible only with the peculiar system of paired arches at Portsmouth.’

 

‘The capitals of the arches and vaulting shafts are variedly interesting.  Some of them illustrate an early development towards the more realistic foliage capitals of High Gothic architecture; some are in the shape of slightly curving spearheads; others resemble ‘spades’ (on playing cards).  Other capitals are simply roundly moulded.  Much of the detailing in the chancel has strong affinities with the work carried out in Chichester Cathedral after the fire of 1186, suggesting that some, at least, of the same craftsmen or designers worked on both churches.  If this is so, the fact that work on the building of St. Thomas’ started earlier than that at Chichester suggests that the influence may have been from Portsmouth (initially Southwick) to Chichester rather than, or as well as, from Chichester to Portsmouth.’

 

‘The transepts of St. Thomas are plainer than the choir, with very slender lancet windows (as in the chancel aisles) in rather irregular positions.  The medieval walls are built, like those of some other churches in the area, of brownish limestone from Binstead in the Isle of Wight p the locality whence the fine white stone for Winchester Cathedral and the early Norman parts of Chichester Cathedral came, and where Quarr (i.e Quarry) Abbey was founded in 1131.  The finer white stone used internally at Portsmouth is, probably like that of the contemporary work at Chichester, from Caen in Normandy.’

 

‘The old chancel of St. Thomas’ Cathedral is particularly interesting nationally, since it is one of the earliest, unquestionably Gothic buildings which can be dated with any degree of precision.